First impressions are not always lasting impressions...

Athens is not what I expected. At least, not what I have seen is what I expected to have seen. I don't know that I could really pin down what I thought Athens would be like, but I know it's not this. Even descending into Greece from Amsterdam today, I wondered, "Where is Athens?" I didn't see a sprawling city with notes of Mediterranean fishing culture along its coasts. I didn't see a city where everything is steeped in history and a sense of, almost, magic and intimacy with the past. I didn't see these things from the plane. From the bus ride into the city, that sense of confusion was put away. We exited a tunnel and Athens was there. Covering the country to the base of the hills on the horizon, the city is just enormous. I don't know how I missed it from the air (maybe it was tucked just right behind the hills) but seeing it instantly be laid out before us was awe-inspiring. With each mile we covered on the road, the city continued to creep out to the new bounds of the horizon, never ending despite its sudden arrival. There were very few words on that bus ride. We were all exhausted, sure, but I think we were all taking in something new that we hadn't fully anticipated.
I think all cities become more beautiful at night. Take our own Seattle; it's a great place any time of day, but driving through downtown at night is stunning. Athens is the same way, but different in it's intangibles. While Athens dons a similar luminescent mask once the sun sets, the vibe of the city is very different to any other I have experienced. People move much slower in Athens than I expected! They drive fast, sure, but people did not seem to be in much of a hurry tonight (Saturday.) They stroll though the downtown markets and cafes with all the time in the world. The Acropolis, which dominated the skyline of downtown Athens, seems to go largely unnoticed. I love that people are content to linger over coffee and chocolate in the warmth of outdoor heaters, sitting on plush couches and carrying on their conversations over the hundreds of others happening simultaneously. It's a very casual yet vaguely celebratory atmosphere. Soccer games are on every television and are projected onto walls and screens. People everywhere seem genuinely happy to be there. Downtown Athens is firmly rooted in its history, but there is no fear of modernization either. I'm glad that my initial projection (however ill-defined it may have been) of Athens was shattered today, because what I've seen so far is pretty exciting!

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